Monday, July 14, 2008

Day 12
July 14 - Rachel's Birthday!!

We woke Rachel up to sing Happy Birthday! The sun is shining and it is beautiful so we decide today is the day to head up the Reine River on a boat. We drive about an hour to Bingen where we catch a boat to go to St. Goar. It is gorgeous! The vineyards are hanging on the sides of very steep hills - don't know how they can farm them there. And there are small towns along the sides of the Reine RIver. Nearly each one has a castle up at the top of the hills of the town. Rheinestein castle, Falconbush castle, Sonneck Castle of the Roman Knights, Himburg castle - the lowest castle on the Reine, Weinstadt Lorch, Rheingold castle which has a small castle above it, Backroch castle, Gutenfeld's castle in Kaub is called the cat and mouse castle because it has one large castle above and a smaller one below on a little island in the river. There is the Oberwesel town with the Schonburg castle and the Church of the Lady". The "Loreley Rock" is a huge rock at the bend of the river where legend has it a mermaid sat and beckoned sailors who then would run their boats into rocks trying to get to her.

The boat ride takes 2 hours and then we have lunch in St. Goar at a little outside cafe. I bought Anna's coo coo clock here! Then we head back to our car by taxi - we missed the train.

We head to Vio's parents for a birthday party for her mom - same day as Rachel's! Margit and Edmund are very gracious but know no English. A nephew takes us on tour of the vineyards and the town. The French burned part of the town in the French/German war - they have monuments and are still upset over the French. The vineyards are beautiful. Their vineyard is called "Weingut Hinter der kirche" because that is where it is - vineyard behind the church. The church is across the street from the farm house and storage barns for their wine. Half the church is Protestant and half the church is Catholic. They have separate sidewalks heading up to the church doors.

They take us on a tour of their wine cellar where they still store their wines and have candlelight wine nights for couples. About 35 people soon arrive for the birthday party. The people are very gracious and gentle, quiet folks. Margit has four brothers and sisters and they are all there with their families. They have a long table set in the backyard of the farm house. They have fresh cut flowers from her garden on the tables. There is champagne and wine and lots of great food. They have concentrated grape juice from their vineyard that is absolutely the best I have ever tasted. Vio has been working all day on the food and preparations. They have wonderful pork rolled around bacon and ham and dumplings and a horseradish salad. After eating, one of Margrit's brothers sings a beautiful song for her and also for us. They are very proud to have us visiting from America and make us feel so welcomed. Only a few can speak any English though so we just listen to their conversation and Bill and Eric interpret for us occasionally. Very fun to see real German's interacting. Many people brought her beautiful flowers and plants for gifts. It is a wonderful evening!